Going underground for food

Fine dining — Subterra restaurant offers affordable food, wine pairings

  • By: David Sale  
  • Published: 12/22/2009 2:31:37 PM
Photo By: Gary AllenAmbience —
The cozy dining room of Subterra features muted lighting and a mural painted by Dundee artist Lorie Wolff.
   The owners of the Underground Cafe in Springbrook Plaza are literally going underground with a new restaurant named Subterra.
   Described as “a wine cellar restaurant,” Subterra is located at 1505 Portland Road, in the lower floor of the commercial complex near the Villa Road intersection.
   Formerly known as the Urban Cellar, new owners Janet and Martin Bleck took over the lease from caterer Sarah Stauber earlier this year. Now, with a new look — including bar seating and a mural by Dundee artist Lorie Wolff — the 3,000 square-foot restaurant is about to re-open.
   “We thought the space had potential,” Janet Bleck said. “It’s a bit hard to find — but if we make it the sort of place people want to find, we’ll draw customers.”
   Originally from Miami, Fla., the Blecks have spent more than two decades in the restaurant and hospitality industry. Moving to Oregon in search of a slower pace and to pursue their interest in fine wine, they took ownership of the former Cornerstone Underground coffeehouse in February.
   “A full restaurant wasn’t on our radar at first, but we catered a small-plate event for Argyle over Labor Day and the guests encouraged us,” Martin Bleck said.
   A trained chef, he also welcomed the chance to spread out: “The Underground’s kitchen is the size of a postage stamp — there was no room for him to work,” said Janet. “And the landlord, Al Medici (of Dark Horse Wine Bar) is trying to make this block into a magnet for art, food and wine.”
   Subterra’s cuisine is “affordable fine dining,” in Martin’s words: “We’re not using the most expensive ingredients, but the best techniques — so for instance, instead of beef tenderloin, which is an expensive cut, I do braised beef short ribs.”
   Entrees range from $15 to $21, and the wine list is similarly affordable, with bottles priced at $50 and under — most in the $20 range — and $7 to $11 for by-the-glass pourings.
   “It’s about half local and half imported vintages, from France, Italy and elsewhere,” Martin said. “We found that a lot of folks in the local industry enjoy a change from pinot — which we love, but there’s a market to serve.”
   The restaurant will be open for dinner Wednesdays through Saturdays and for Sunday brunch starting Dec. 28, with a grand opening at the Chehalem Valley Chamber of Commerce’s (invitation-only) Wine on Tuesday event Jan. 12.
   Subterra will also host private parties for lunch and dinner Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays. For reservations or more information, call 503-538-6060.

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dbhr from Newberg
12/27/2009 1:32:24 PM

We tried Subterra last week and were delighted to be able to add a new restaurant to our list of local favorites..Diners descend stairs down to the restaurant, which adds to the intimate wine cellar atmosphere. At the entry, a gorgeous textured oil painting of birches from local artist Kathleen Jones, along with a personal welcome from the owner started our experience on the right note.Once seated, we were promptly offered menus and drinks by attentive staff. Our party sampled a variety of comfort foods,including tender, perfectly seasoned Carlton Pork, and the supurb Mushroom Galtette. These and our other selections were complented by a terrific bottle of local wine,. The restaurant's soft warm colors, full-wall wine-country mural , and quality fabrics make the atmosphere inviting and comfortable - a place to linger and enjoy. Our only regret is that we didn't have room for dessert!

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